I've had two Idrive GT's and they make outstanding street ebikes. After all, you just proved that used mountain bikes can be a real bargain. I would suggest a hub drive or if it must be a mid-drive, another donor bike. The system really worked, when the rider "stands" on the pedals, the rear of the bike rises rather than squats, but the off-road gang didn't like the extra weight and it never caught on.Īs far as mounting a mid-drive, I think the dogbone is right where the motor would mount and preclude that kind of system. Serious off-roaders would break that link(doesn't happen on the street) and the two attaching bolts were in there so solid that often the owner would break one or both of the trying to remove them. by a composite link(dogbone) attaching to the main frame that allows some movement. hitechredneck said: I really liked the i-drive on my sanction. bearing Adjacent to the chainstay pivot bearing and the BB is located in the frt. The "anti-bob" system has the bottom bracket "floating" relative to the main frame, the BB pivots on a lg. Enjoy the new found silence while pedaling up your favorite climb.The problem my series had(mid 2000's) has to do with the "dogbone". Install the pins, tighten moderately, check for binding, reassemble and ride away. The bike comes with many advanced features like a. They should have a layer of grease on them. established a reputation for excellence under the guidance of its founder Dante Trussardi. Carefully install the bottom bracket carrier over these O-rings ensuring that they remain in place as you do so. They are in the plumbing section of a good hardware store. rotate the pin in both directions while doing so to distribute the grease evenly. Push the pivot pin in place and pump grease into the zirq until oozes out. This enables you to simply grease the bearings once in awhile (No disassembly) and has the added benefit of holding the bushing in place. You can get a zirq fitting online or at a good hardware store. Drill and tap a hole for a zirq fitting exactly as shown in the picture once the bushing is pressed. Once pressed in place so that the bushing and the bearings are perfectly centered. Again, you can have the shop do this or attempt it yourself. Once the machining is done, the bushing and bearings are pressed. 020" of the O-ring protruding from the bushing which will seal the entire system nicely when the carrier is installed. The bushing needs to have a slight counterbore turned into it on either side that is. This is something they can measure at the shop. 020" clearance when the carrier is compressed by tightening the pin and nut with moderate torque. Bring the pin and pin nut, and tools with you so they can get it just right. The machinist should be able to figure out the correct displacement. I found that 1.95" worked for me, but manufacturing differences may mean it's different in your case. Meaning, it can't be too wide or it will bind. Critical: the bushing width needs to take into account the deflection of the bottom bracket carrier when tightened. Ask them to fit the bearings into the swing arm by milling it out and creating the bushing. Bring the fully disassembled swing arm, the bearings, and the bottom bracket carrier with you. Any competent machine shop can do this for you. The next step is to fit the new bearings into the swing arm housing which requires a milling operation and the creation of a bushing. These can be bought on Amazon: Koyo B-1816 Needle Roller Bearing, Full Complement Drawn Cup, Open, Inch, 1-1/8" ID, 1-3/8" OD, 1" Width. We will start by replacing the floating roller bearing design with two encased needle bearings that fit perfectly, fully supporting the pivot pin. To repair the problem permanently requires a redesign. It carriers the brunt of the pedaling forces. Typically, the problem pivot (there are two) is the one closest to the bottom bracket. Of course, once the swing arm aluminum is worn it will never be right again. It's just too weak of a design to last under even normal use. A heavy or aggressive rider will wear it out very quickly allowing a slight movement during pedaling which translates into a pronounced creak or click that can be felt in the pedals. It works well until the steel of the bearing wears the aluminum on both sides. They use an off-the-shelf 1-1/8" roller bearing from a headset that is suspended between an aluminum split cone washer and the beveled interior shoulder of the swing arm housing. However, its fatal flaw is the eventual wear of the aluminum to steel connections in their floating bearing design. The parallelogram design of GT's complex iDrive 4 rear suspension pivot is clever and effective at stopping pedal bob, especially while climbing in the saddle.
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